Classification of hats

Hat with sun, rain, wind, warmth, safety and aesthetic decoration and other major functions. Production materials in addition to the special function of the hat requires the corresponding special materials, usually choose textile fabrics, leather and fur, felt and so on.

Hat according to its modeling style is divided into melon cap, beret, tourist cap, bell-shaped cap, octagonal cap, bowler hat, pot hat, wide-brimmed hat, cowboy hat, duck-tongued cap, military cap, cap, wind bonnet and all kinds of stereotypes hat, all kinds of exaggerated modeling of the hat;

According to the hat body shape can be divided into hemispherical, can-shaped, basin-shaped, conical, bell-shaped, mushroom-shaped and other special shapes; brim shape is divided into duck-tongue, round, crescent-shaped, ear protection and so on.

Hat structure design principles and techniques

Hat is worn on the head, so the human head structure is the basic basis for hat structure design. The main specifications are based on the head circumference, the two ear roots over the top of the arc length (horizontal arc length), forehead over the top of the center to the back of the arc length of the occipital point (longitudinal arc length), the ear roots to the top of the head of the vertical distance and the side of the neck to the top of the head of the vertical distance, etc., as shown in Figure 1. The example specifications to the intermediate body shall prevail, head circumference 58cm, head arc length average 35cm, head circumference 13cm, head height 25cm. according to the hat structure characteristics and modeling change rule, the establishment of a series of hat structure based on paper pattern.

First, the multi-piece cap, that is, the melon hat and duck tongue-shaped brim structure based on paper samples

This kind of hat for fitting the head hemispherical shape, usually can be divided into two, four, five, six, eight, etc., split piece shaped like a cut melon petals, so also known as melon hat, structure design specifications based on the head circumference and head arc length, the basic paper pattern structure drawing as shown in Figure 2.

1, drawing methods and steps

① first make an isosceles triangle, the head circumference divided by the number of pieces for the triangle bottom edge (for example, four piece cap, when the head circumference is 58cm, the bottom edge of 58/4 = 16.5 (cm), while the six piece cap, it is 9.67cm, the head of the arc of the length of the 1/2 triangle for the length of the waist;

② in the triangle bottom edge and waist side of the middle of each convex amount, drawing contour lines, convex amount depending on the number of pieces of how many inversely proportional change;

③ so that the two bottom angles at right angles, the top angle is less than 360 ° in addition to the number of pieces.

2, duck tongue-shaped brim structure design (shown in Figure 3)

Charting methods and steps:
① first according to the head circumference for the circumference of the circle, take the semicircle; radius of three equal parts, make parallel lines, in the circle at two points, as the starting point of the brim.

② before the middle of the outward measurement of the brim length, drawing the outline of the brim modeling line. Melon skin cap structure is widely used, common tourist hats, various types of work cap, bell-shaped cap, octagonal cap, beret and so on.

Second, bowler hat structure base paper pattern

Bowler hat, cap body is cylindrical, flat cap top, round brim, also known as the can-shaped cap 21, the structural design is shown in Figure 4. Its drawing method and steps are:

① brim: the inner circle to the circumference of the head as a circle, because the human head is slightly oval, that is, the transverse diameter can be slightly shorter than the longitudinal reduction of some, about 0.5cm ~ 0.7cm, but also can not be adjusted to draw into a circle, the outer edge of the inner circle within the radius of the width of the brim as a circle.
② top of the hat and the brim of the same method of inner circle.

③ hat body: hat body height is not lower than the head circumference of the high shall prevail, the hat body circumference that the head circumference, according to 1/2 charting. Bowler hat structure is usually applied to the basin cap, wide-brimmed hat, cowboy hat and duck-tongued cap, military cap.

Third, the wind bonnet structure of the basic paper pattern

Wind bonnet is a typical hood, the whole head wrapped, only revealing the face. Commonly connected with the jacket, become a part of the collar and cap of the garment, structural design as shown in Figure 5. Drawing method and steps are:

① head height +2cm, head circumference / 2-2cm for the length and width of the rectangle; five equal parts of the cap width, 1/5 point for a straight line between the cap and the cap side piece.
② cap side piece before the upper, plus 1.5cm, 2.5cm down to the point, before the center concave 1.5cm; before the lower direction of the lower 5cm, and 1/5 points connected to the auxiliary line; after the lower direction of the inner 2.5cm for the point, and up and the head height of 1/3 points connected to the auxiliary line.

(iii) The center piece of the cap, the upper end is skimmed in 1.5cm, the lower end is skimmed in 2cm, the center piece of the cap and the side piece of the cap shall be equal to the contour line of the stitching.

Fourth, common hat structure design

Hat structure design of the basic method is based on the above hat base paper samples, according to different hat modeling structural requirements, the base paper samples for the corresponding structural processing, the design of the hat changes in the structure.

The application design of the basic paper pattern of the cap

1, the work cap is also known as the tourist cap, is a typical melon skin cap structure. Cap flap usually has four, five and six pieces, etc., the brim is generally duck tongue shape, the back of the cap is designed with an adjustable buckle, usually for the matching hat of the professional clothing, five-piece work cap structure design as an example, to discuss the structure design and steps (as shown in Figure 6):

① In the brim of the basic paper sample set up a number of diagonal shear line, from the outer edge of the inward shear to the hat mouth arc, do not cut, leave about 0.1cm.

② will be cut after the base paper samples placed on cardboard, the hat mouth arc cut points fixed with pins, respectively, to close the outer edge of the brim cut mouth, the amount of closure depending on the shape of the brim; re-drawing along the hat mouth arc, painting the outer edge of the brim outline modeling line.

③ The front center and both sides of the piece for the same structure, to five pieces of melon cap base paper sample shall prevail.

④The rear two pieces, the lower part of the design of the adjustable buckle, that is, in the lower center side of the set of round openings.

2, beret, also known as the bun cap, the shape of the bun and named. Cap flap is mostly six, eight pieces, the cap can also be installed hat waist or then installed duck tongue-shaped brim, into a duck-tongue cap, octagonal cap. Structural design and steps shown in Figure 7:

① in the six-piece melon cap base paper sample under 1 / 3 set transverse shear line, and then in the lower center line set shear line; cut transverse shear line, the lower neighbor from the top down shear, not cut.

② will be cut after the base paper sample placed on cardboard, separation and extension of the lower part, the extension amount depends on the beret convex amount of modeling; lower cap cut point fixed with pins, to the sides of the unfolding, unfolding the amount of also depends on the beret convex amount of modeling; cap convex amount of the cap according to the cap at the maximum amount of circumference calculation.

3, flap cap, also known as tube cap, shaped like a cylindrical hood, flap cap mouth. Structure design and steps shown in Figure 8.

Will be two pieces of four-piece cap base paper sample longitudinally parallel to the bottom flush placed on cardboard; 1/2 at the drawing of a transverse auxiliary line, over the two sides of the cap as a plumb line, the cap down parallel plus put the amount of folding of the outwardly turned mouth; re-painting the top of the hat contour line.

The application design of the basic paper pattern of the bowler hat

1, cowboy hat is a typical bowler hat, round brim, slightly upward curled, often flat oval shape of the top of the hat, hat waist decorated with decorative bands. Structure design and steps shown in Figure 9:

① in 1/4 of the round brim base paper sample set to point to the center of the circle of the shear line, the location of the side of the side of the center; from the outer edge to the inner shear, do not cut.

② will be cut after the base paper samples placed on cardboard, the cap arc cutting point fixed with pins, unfolding the outer edge of the brim cut mouth, unfolding the amount depending on the amount of the brim rolled up modeling; according to the brim width drawing the outer edge of the outline modeling line, the side line outward moderately increase the amount of expansion.

③Flat oval hat top modeling.

④ In 1/4 of the cap body base paper drawing cap top arc modeling line, and then set the longitudinal shear line, shear line density from the front (back) to the side of the middle of the gradual dilution; from the top down shear, do not cut.

⑤ Place the cut base paper pattern on the cardboard, fix the cut point of the hat mouth arc line with a nail, close the cut opening above the hat body, the amount of closure depends on the length of the top arc of the hat; draw the position of the decorative band along the arc of the hat mouth.

2, the deformation of the bowler hat hat, the top of the hat slightly closed, into a round platform-shaped modeling, similar to the round basin and named. Brim modeling has curled up or upward or down, round or crescent-shaped. There are more changes, and it is called fashion hat. Structural design and steps shown in Figure 10.

① In 1/4 of the round brim base paper pattern set up pointing to the center of the circle of the cut line, from the outer edge to the inward respectively cut each cut line, not cut.
② will be cut after the base paper samples placed on cardboard, the cap arc cut point with a nail fixed, closed brim outer edge cut mouth, closed amount depends on the brim modeling; according to the brim width drawing the outer edge of the contour modeling line, the ends of the inward moderately skimming.

③Round the top of the hat modeling.

④ Set the longitudinal shear line on 1/4 of the base paper pattern of the hat body; cut from top to bottom without cutting.

⑤ Place the cut base paper pattern on the cardboard, fix the cut point of the hat opening arc line with a nail, close the cut opening above the hat body, the amount of closure depends on the length of the hat top arc.

The application design of the basic paper pattern of the wind bonnet

Two-piece hood. Commonly used in down jackets, windbreakers and other garments on the collar hat. Structure design and steps shown in Figure 11:

① In the wind bib base paper pattern of the center piece, and the side pieces of the arc bend corresponding position to set a number of transverse shear line; respectively, from the center line to the outward shear, not cut.

② will be cut after the basic paper samples placed on cardboard, along the side of the piece arc splicing cap in the shear piece, and respectively, with a nail to fix the shear point, unfolding the center line of the cut so that the splicing at the match; front of the lower part of the middle plus put stacked door amount, and painting the hat mouth modeling contours; set up in the cap after the middle of the upper part of the province, the province of the length of 7cm ~ 8cm, the province of the amount of 5cm ~ 6cm, re-drawing the outline of the smooth line.

Summary

Take the basic paper pattern of the hat as the basis, change the design of the hat modeling structure, as a method of hat structure design, simple and flexible, scientific and reasonable, accurate and practical. The establishment of the hat base paper pattern for hat structure design provides a structure modeling benchmark, to improve and enhance the accuracy and standardization of hat structure design has a very important role, the design efficiency is significantly improved. But the hat modeling changes are rich, should be different from hat, can not be copied, hat production methods and materials are also constantly innovating and developing, new materials, the emergence of new technologies will certainly put forward new requirements for structural design, structural design methods should be constantly innovated and improved.